View source for Parts Numbers, Interchange, and Substitutes

==<span style="color: #ff0000; font-size: 140%;">Note to Wiki editors.</span> What do you think about putting each category on their own page? Perhaps the format the FAQ page has. I think it's a little cluttered as it sits right now.== 


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=Below is information on what <span style="color: #ff0000; font-size: 140%;">'''may'''</span> interchange between some of the CX/GL models from different years:= 
**Also, please check measurements and specifications when using parts such as pistons and rings that would be for a car engine. <u>If you know for a fact</u> the part number listed will work please let a member of this wiki know and that part will be added.'''

<u>'''AIR CLEANER'''</u>

The same air cleaner element was used for all of the 500cc bikes except for the Turbo. Both Turbos shared the same element, then the CX650C and GL650s each used unique elements. The common one is Honda part # 17220-415-003, which generally retails around $30; however, there is a replacement filter made by Emgo (part # 178679) available for about $10. There is also a K&N filter available.

The air cleaner housing is interchangeable between 78-79 bikes. It does not interchange with GL or Turbo models.
Although Honda lists the same part number as applying to 80-82 CX C and D models, I could swear that the housing on my '80C had a recess on one side for tool kit?

**<u>BODYWORK</u>'''

The tail sections and fuel tanks are interchangeable between 78-79 and 80-81 Deluxe models, but not the Customs.

The Custom models have a smaller cruiser-style fuel tank, which is secured by bolts in the front, while the tank for the A model and Deluxe sit on rubber bushings on steel posts welded to either side of the frame.

I’ve been informed that you can adapt a Deluxe tank to a Custom by inserting short bolts or studs into the frame holes and putting the rubber bushings over them. Presumably you can fit a Custom tank to a Deluxe by cutting off the posts and drilling the frame.


<u>'''BRAKES, FRONT'''</u>

78-81 CX500, CX500C, and CX500Ds all use the same brakes, a single, one-piston caliper on the left side, same bracket, same brake disc. The caliper is used on the 79 GL1000 and CBX as well (couldn't be very confidence-inspiring on the big CBX!). The bracket is unique to the CX series. The disc is also used by the 79-80 CB650A, 80 CB650C

The 81-82 GL500 bikes upgraded to dual-piston calipers on both sides. The calipers were shared by numerous Honda bikes of the era, including the 82 CX500T, 83 GL650, 81-82 CB900F, 82 CB650A, 82 CB750A, CM450A, 83 CB1100F, 85CB650SC, and others. Look up part #s 45101-MA3-006 (L) and 45201-MA3-006 R for a list.

The GL500 brake discs were interchangeable side to side, and were shared with the 82 CX500C. However, the brackets were unique to the 81-82 GL500s.

The 82 CX500 got a single dual-piston caliper as above, sharing the brake disc with the GLs, but had a completely unique caliper mounting bracket.

The 82 CX500T used the same calipers as the GLs, but had unique brake discs, which have different part numbers on each side. The caliper brackets were used again for the 83 CX650T.

The 83 CX650C used a new dual-piston caliper on the left side, shared with the CX650T, 84-86 CB700SC, 83 CX650C, 83GL1100, 83-86 VF1100C. The caliper bracket and brake disc interchanges with the 83-86 VT500C, 84-85 VF500C, 82-83 FT500.

The 83 CX650T used the same left caliper as the 650C, and the right caliper was the same design, shared with 84-86 CB700SC, 83GL1100, 83-86 VF1100C. It used the same brake discs as the 83 GL1100, different side to side. It used the same caliper brackets as the CX500T.

The 83 GL650 used the same calipers as the 81-82 GL500s. The caliper brackets were shared with 81-82 CB900F, 86 CB450SC, 85-86 VT1100A and AC, 81-82 CB750F, 82 GL1100. The discs were shared with 83 CM450A, 83 CB1000C, 83-86 CB450SC, 84-85 VT700C.

The CX650/CX650T calipers are externally identical to the GL500/CX500T calipers, can be mounted on the same brackets, and can use the same brake pads. However, the later calipers have larger-diameter pistons. So, you can put calipers from a CX650 (or V65, or CB700SC) on GL500, and vice-versa, but they must be replaced in pairs.


<u>'''EXHAUST'''</u>

You can not take the headers and H-box assembly off a GL500 and put it on a CX500.
You can fit GL500 mufflers onto the end of the H-box from a CX model, however, you will need to fabricate new hanger brackets, and the rubber stopper for the sidestand will not be in the correct place.


<u>'''FINAL DRIVE'''</u>

The final drive units are interchangeable from 1978-1982 for CX, CX-C, CX-D models. The GL500 models can use a CX final drive, however, the reverse is not true. (There is a hole in the CX version to mount the right side shock absorber.)

===='''Here is a post from Sidecar Bob and RichNCT on the same subject:'''==== 

Rich in CT on the HTTA forum & I researched what would fit together when I was putting my frankenbike together & we have figured out the following:
NOTE: We didn't research the turbo models and couldn't find information for the GL400, so if anyone knows about them please let us know.
- There are several rear end configurations in this family of bikes.

- the original CX500 type

- the GL500 type

- the GL650 type

- the 2 piece propeller shaft/4 stud final drive design
- The part of the frame where the swingarm attaches & the width of the linkage where it attaches to the swingarm is the same for all of the Pro Link models. This means that the swingarm from any GL500, GL650, CX650C or CX650E will fit the frame of any other GL500, GL650, CX650C or CX650E.
- There are 2 different types of propeller shaft.

- The original 1 piece type has one part of the u-joint machined as part of the shaft. In spite of the fact that the online parts fiches call for different numbers, the ones for the GL500 & GL600 are identical. I'm not sure if the one for the CX500 is the same, but it looks different in the fiche drawing.

- The 2 piece type has a separate propeller shaft & u-joint. This type was used in the CX650E, CX650C, & GL700
- There are 2 different types of final shaft (the shaft that sticks out of the engine that the u-joint attaches to).

- The original type has a groove around the end to accommodate the bolt that attaches the u-joint to it and was used on all CX500, GL500, & GL650 models.

- The 2 piece propeller shaft type which has a tapered end was used on the CX650c, CX650E, & GL700.
- There are 4 different final drives.
- The original CX500 type has a stud for attaching the shock absorber & splines on the pinion gear shaft (input of the final drive) to engage with the splines inside the joint that is pinned to the propeller shaft. It is attached to the swingarm by 3 studs.
- The GL500 type is similar to the original CX500 type except that it doesn't have the shock stud.
- The GL650 type is similar to the GL500 type except that the raised centering ring on the swingarm that engages with the opening in the final drive housing has a larger diameter.

Here is a possible replacement for the drive boot:

Some years ago Vitter took his GL500 boot to Canadian Tire and they helped him find an automotive boot that is easily modified. I contacted the distributor and found out that it is the right outer CV boot from an '84-'87 Honda Civic 1500.

The only modification required for this boot is to enlarge the hole on the side that attaches to the engine.

[https://cx500forum.com/forum/technical-help-forum/7048-empi-boot-pro-link-swingarms.html]

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| <span class="txt2">'''Re: Driveshaft boot: are CX650E & GL500 the same?'''</span> 
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| From my other post:
The boot I bought was $15 from Canadian Tire, stock # 15-2224-2. Manufactured by EMPI Inc. Anaheim Calif., manufacturers part number 86-1030K (according to the box). I don't know what kind of car it's meant for.
There's a lip on the boots' engine side that has to be trimmed off to an inside diameter of about 1 3/4". The engine has a flange which will hold the boot tight if you trim it just enough. To pull the boot over the engine flange, I used a screwdriver I've modified for seal pulling: I ground the sharp edges off the tip and bent the last 1/4" of the tip to a 90 degree angle. Slip the tip under the boot while rotating it around the flange. The swingarm side (about 3 - 3 1/4" ID) slips and holds right onto the swingarm, no trim needed.
The boot is a little shorter and the rubber is less supple than the Honda part, making the boot look like it is under a little tension when installed. This made me nervous, so I checked it before each ride to make sure it hadn't popped off the engine or swingarm. No problems, so I check it less often now.
I imagine installation might go easier by heating the boot with a hair dryer, though I didn't do that...
It worked for me............. 
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<u>'''FRONT FORKS'''</u>

The 78-80 CXs have 33mm forks. The 81-82 GLs have 35mm forks, except for the Turbo, which has 37mm. The CX650 has 39mm forks. I have not found a size on the GL650. My source says that 81-82 CX models have 35mm forks, but the ’81D I picked up had 33mm.

The steering head bearings are 26 x 48.5 x 15.2 upper (18 balls), and 30 x 50 x 14.4 lower (19 balls) for all CX and GL models except for the Turbos. These use upper 26 x 47 x 15 and lower 30 x 55 x 17.

A dual-disc GL500i front end will mount easily on an earlier CX frame, however, you may encounter issues mounting the gauges and headlight. The top clamp is also not interchangeable, however, you can unscrew the fuse block from the CX top clamp and fit it into the GL top clamp without modifications (the electrical systems are not interchangeable).

Another note on the GL forks- the top of the upper clamp has a ridge around the inside of it, which is meant to fit into the groove about 1” down from the top of the fork tubes. If the fork is clamped with the caps almost even with the upper clamp, it will compress the fork tubes over the caps and make them VERY difficult to remove.

The 78-80 forks (33mm) use 140ccs of oil per leg. The GL500 front end (35mm) uses 210cc of fork oil per leg. Honda recommends Automatic Transmission Fluid (ATF) for fork oil, but the common practice is to use 15- or 20-weight Fork Oil (available from any motorcycle shop, (may not be instock) instead, to stiffen up the front end.


**<u>IGNITION</u>'''
All 78-80 CX models, and the 81 C and D models, use a CDI (Capacitive Discharge Ignition) system. This is run by a black or gold-colored “brain box” under the seat, which is a point of failure as these bikes age. The modern replacement currently available is called a Ignitech. This "box" provides the proper electrical pulse to the original coils that the CDI did, but it is powered by the battery instead of the high and low speed coils in the stator. The reports have been positive for this unit and it seems to work well. The black and gold boxes can be freely interchanged among any of these models, as can the coils.

The 82 CX500, 81-82 GL500 use a transistorized ignition. These are not directly compatible with the older bikes without making changes within the engine. Therefore the coils, ignition circuits, etc., are only interchangeable among these later bikes.

CDI system coils have the plug wire permanently connected to the coil. On transistorized bikes, the plug wires are attached to the coils by a threaded cap.

The plug caps can be removed from the plug wires, and these can be swapped between CX and GL models. Here is a post by LRCXed on where to purchase new plug caps that match the originals:

It's been a long time coming, but there is finally a company that's making replacement spark plug caps for the CX/GL bikes. I found them on the bay and decided to give them a shot after several emails. I ordered 10 of them since I'll need them eventually. They came in today and they are a direct copy in size and shape. The up side to them is that they are made solid inside with no resistors or springs to get corroded. So that's a good thing.
I ordered them 6 days ago from across the pond. Not bad for international shipping. Here's the link to their listing on the bay. [http://www.ebay.com/itm/400343430384?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649 bikebusiness] is their name. And in my opinion these are the best alternative I've seen from past searches trying to find a cap that fits. And they look like the OEM caps, so no one will ever know. The only thing missing is the rubber flange that seals to the valve cover. But that's easily removed from your old ones and put on these.

As you can see they look pretty good compared to the OEM cap at the bottom.
Resized to 43% (was 1024 x 685) - Click image to enlarge[[File:http://i325.photobucket.com/albums/k378/LRCXed/DSC_3582.jpg|thumb|440x294px|Posted Image]]


They have the same type brass screw ends for the wires. And the plug end is sealed into the plastic so no water can get in there to cause problems.
Resized to 43% (was 1024 x 685) - Click image to enlarge[[File:http://i325.photobucket.com/albums/k378/LRCXed/DSC_3584.jpg|thumb|440x294px|Posted Image]]


So there you have it. A good cap replacement for those that have need for them. No more need to tape up a cracked one in hopes that it doesn't spark over to the head and short out the spark.

Larry


<u>'''OIL FILTER'''</u>

ALL CX/GL models use the same oil filter! How about that?
Honda part # is 154A1-413-005 or 15410-KEA-305. (It was also used on a handful of other bikes, most recently the 1990 VTR250.)

There are also pattern/aftermarket filters available:
Fram, CH6007 (Have been found on the shelf at discount auto parts stores.)
Purolator? ML16807.
Wix 24938.
<u>K&N KN-111</u>
<u>NAPA Gold 1217</u>

**<u>REAR SUSPENSION</u>'''

1978-79 and 1980D-81D models use the same rear shock absorbers. The 81C-82C models have a different part number for the assembly, but the same numbers for the spring and damper units, so they are most likely functionally identical. They are interchangeable side-to-side. Replacements are available from JC Whitney, and Progressive. Harley Sportster and Honda VT1100 Shadow shocks have also been used successfully with little or no modification. Sportster shocks are available in a variety of lengths, so decide what ride height you want before shopping.

==The GL500 suspension is completely different, utilizing a mono-shock design that was the same for 81-82.== 

It has been a problem getting the seal for the GL500 mono-shock. Honda parts sites say they are NLA. Here is some information from Murray that may solve the problem:

''I have not done any this year but last year I rebuilt 2 of them and ran into the same issue with Honda saying the seal was NLA.''

''What I ordered was the seals for a 1985 VF700s, for some reason that was available and it is the same mono-shock,''

''same original Show as part number.''

<u>'''TIRE SIZES'''</u> 

**Front'''
CX500A/C/D and GL500 '''<span style="color: #ff0000;">100/90-19</span>'''
(interesting fact- you can get big paddle-type tires in this size in case you want to race in mud or sand).
Be aware that 130-90/16 FRONT tires are also out there for some Harley models, and you don’t want to get those.

**Rear'''
78-79 models '''<span style="color: #ff0000;">110-90/18 </span>'''
GL500 and Custom '''<span style="color: #ff0000;">130-90/16</span>'''

=='''Pistons, rings & Bearings'''== 

I would never change the bearings for a different size one by color code.

When a crank journal wears it never does so straight across the journal so it will be original size at the outer edges and smaller in the center if you simply use a oversize bearing it will fail as the new bearing will catch and gall at the outer edge.

Hopefully you would catch that during assembly and testing with plastiguage.
Murray

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**<span style="color: #ff0000; font-size: 130%;">Information from here and down to the next mark </span><span style="color: #ff0000; font-size: 160%;">*</span> <span style="color: #ff0000; font-size: 130%;">need to be edited and merged.</span>'''
<span style="background-color: #fafbfc; color: #1c2837; font-family: arial,verdana,tahoma,sans-serif; font-size: 12.800000190734863px;">Here is the new Hastings part number I use for replacing CX500 STD rings</span>

<span style="background-color: #fafbfc; color: #1c2837; font-family: arial,verdana,tahoma,sans-serif;">Hastings part number </span><span style="background-color: #fafbfc; color: #1c2837; font-family: arial,verdana,tahoma,sans-serif; font-size: 12.800000190734863px;">2C4186 in standard size</span>

<span style="background-color: #fafbfc; font-family: arial,verdana,tahoma,sans-serif; font-size: 12.800000190734863px;">[http://www.hastingsmfg.com/RingFinderDiametricalDetails.aspx?AppMACD=3.071 http://www.hastingsm...x?AppMACD=3.071]</span>

<span style="background-color: #fafbfc; color: #1c2837; font-family: arial,verdana,tahoma,sans-serif; font-size: 12.800000190734863px;">3.071 = 78mm bore</span>

<span style="background-color: #fafbfc; color: #1c2837; font-family: arial,verdana,tahoma,sans-serif; font-size: 12.800000190734863px;">look on the above chart for '''2c4186''' also can be had in oversize of 10 20 30 40 and 50 thou</span>

<span style="background-color: #fafbfc; color: #1c2837; font-family: arial,verdana,tahoma,sans-serif; font-size: 12.800000190734863px;">the top 2 piston ring grooves must be opened up on a lathe to 1.2 mm approx</span>

<span style="background-color: #fafbfc; color: #1c2837; font-family: arial,verdana,tahoma,sans-serif; font-size: 12.800000190734863px;">ring groove width minimum .0484</span>

<span style="background-color: #fafbfc; color: #1c2837; font-family: arial,verdana,tahoma,sans-serif; font-size: 12.800000190734863px;">ring groove width max .0492</span>



**<span style="color: #ff0000; font-size: 21px;">* (please edit and merge the above information)</span>'''


Also, as far as i know there are 3 sizes of rod bearings still around.

13218-415-013 BEARING D, CONN ROD $10.39

13220-415-003 ! BEARING F, CONN ROD $7.62

13216-415-013 BEARING B, CONN ROD $11.55

To save hassle, I supply my crank shop with the rods and bearings I want to use so they can match the clearance on

the crank when they finish it.

Hope this helps.
Murray

**<u>ACCESSORIES</u>'''

<u>'''A comprehensive and illustrated guide to engine guards:'''</u>
http://choppercharles.com/cs/forums/16780/ShowPost.aspx

**A couple of pictures of a Heel/Toe floorboard set up.'''
http://choppercharles.com/cs/forums/41792/ShowPost.aspx#41792

Because the CX and GL models have different frames, luggage racks, sissy bars, luggage, etc., are generally not interchangeable.


**<u>Oil filters Aftermarket and other.</u>'''
<u>Honda 154A1-413-005 or 15410-KEA-305</u>
<u>Fram CH6007</u>
<u>Purolator ML16807</u>
<u>Wix 24938</u>
<u>K&N KN-111</u>
<u>NAPA Gold 1217</u>

**<u>Cheap (non-Honda) Thermostat.</u>'''
<u>NAPA – 535080</u>
<u>Stant – 45868</u> <<<<<< No longer works
<u>Autozone – 15868</u>

=='''[[Radiator Hose Replacements from NAPA|Radiator Hose Replacement Part Numbers from NAPA]]'''== 

Non-Honda radiator plug from PepBoys .[http://cx500forum.com/index.php?/topic/19732-the-100-dollar-bike/page<u>view</u>findpost<u>p</u>225766 Link to forum thread]
[http://www.pepboys.com/product/details/1203255/00832/ Link to PepBoys]
[[File:http://static.pepboys.com/images/productImages/3178100/61110-003.jpg|thumb|1]]

**<u>Exhaust Manifold crush gaskets:</u>'''

**<u>[http://cx500forum.com/index.php?/topic/20552-exhaust-header-gaskets/ Link to forum about exhaust gaskets]</u>'''
<span style="background-color: #fafbfc; color: #1c2837; font-family: arial,verdana,tahoma,sans-serif; font-size: 12.800000190734863px;">Autozone Part Number </span><span style="background-color: #fafbfc; color: #1c2837; font-family: arial,verdana,tahoma,sans-serif; font-size: 12.800000190734863px; line-height: 1.5;">60567 $2.99</span>

Fel-Pro part number 60567 or 12-1002.
<span style="background-color: #fafbfc; color: #1c2837; font-family: arial,verdana,tahoma,sans-serif; font-size: 12.800000190734863px;">O'Reilly's (Felpro - 60567)</span>

The automotive applications are 1976-84 Honda 1.3, 1.5, 1.6 and 1.8 liter 4 cylinder engines. May also fit some 1991-95 Nissan 4 cylinders. $1.49 each.

======'''Replacement 7 volt voltage regulator'''====== 
(These are for Goldwings, but all you need to do is splice in your regulator's ends. The "B" unit may have the correct end terminals.)

http://www.goldwingdocs.com/Store/Goldwing-7-Volt-Regulator.asp
_
<u>'''The starter relay/solenoid'''</u> is a common part to several bikes. There are plenty of new/used parts in the after market:

Model:
79-83 CB 550, 650, 750, 900, 1000, 1100's
84-6 CB 700SC.
80-83 GL 1100.
80-3 GL 500 650's CX 650
81-2 CBX.
=====82-5 VF 700-750F, C, S's.===== 
83-6 VF 1100C,S.
83-6 VT 500.
85-6 VF1000R.
84-5 VF 500C.

Below is an example of how one person found a replacement ignition switch for his 650 that is NLA (No Longer Available).
<u>'''Ignition switch for the CX650C'''</u>

My ignition switch bit the big one a while back. The interior plastic plates had eroded around the continuity slides and the switch was essentially not rebuildable. After pouring through the web for a bit I discovered that the following bikes used "almost" the same switch:
<u>81-83 VF500F</u>
<u>87-90CBR600F</u>
<u>82-85 VF700C/750CS</u>
<u>82-86VF750F</u>
<u>84 VF1000F</u>
<u>87-89 CBR1000F</u>

<u>I say ALMOST because you will give up the parking light feature. Other than than it is a perfect fit with no surgery needed on the connector. The best part is that Tikes Cycle Parts had a NEW OEM quality EMGO replacements in stock for $35 + ship on fleabay (Ebay). It included two keys.</u>

<u>The wire colors are different but after reading the Magna schematic and metering the switch it proved to be a good match.</u>

Here is a repair part from
http://www.partsnmore.com/
that has '''NOT''' been verified to work. It appears to be suitable, except you will lose the parking light.
Ignition Switch Bracket & Cover

US$ 10<span class="cents">.00</span>

[http://www.partsnmore.com/add/12-0064 Add to Cart ►]
====Ignition Switch Repair Kit==== 
#12-0064
Ignition Switch Repair Kit Repairs The Following Switches: OEM #35010-377-007, 35100-377-003, 35100-375-007/003, 35100-438-007, 35100-422-007
==== ==== 
<u>-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------</u>
===Radiator Fan Switch Cross Reference:=== 

I found the following information from [http://vfrworld.com/forums/1st-2nd-generation-1983-1989/36197-thermo-switch.html#post330921 this post on the VFRWorld forum.] It is a cross-reference of part numbers that can replace the 650 radiator fan switch. (Dave F.)

My preference is to use one of the lower temperature switches noted.

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Auto Tune PT2628
ACDelco E-1858
Beck/Arnley WorldParts 201-0817
201-1369
BWD (Borg-Warner) TFS500
Echlin (NAPA) FS-130
Facet FS8404
Filko TFS-1
Four Seasons 35934
G.P. (Sorenson) 40-5001
Kem TW-65
Mitech TS-84
Motorcraft no interchange
Niehoff WA-639B
Standard TS-84
Wells SW-504

Note: The following switches have a lower temp range than OEM Honda. OEM Temp Range: Closed Switch Temp Range=98c to 102c, Open Switch Temp Range=93c to 97c.

All are m16 X 1.5, N.O., 4mm Male Bayonet Connection, Closed Switch Temp Range=88.5c to 91.5c . Open Switch Temp Range=82c to 88c.

Beck Arnley 201-0817 ($20.00 Rockauto.com, Also Gates T274 $16)

Borg Warner TFS500

Echlin FS-130 (36.77 Napa)

Wells SW504

Niehof WA-639B

Four Seasons 35934
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== == 

=='''Tach cable oil seal'''== 

Here is a post from murrayf on what may work to replace the tach cable oil seal that is no longer available from Honda for the CX/GL's:

I use the tach seal from a Goldwing GL1000, it works. Order one from a 78 or 79. You have to push the cable in a bit to get the screw in, but the

seal works nice.

<span style="color: #ff0000;">Another member reported this seal not working for him. Be cautious, and compare sizes before trying this.</span>







Credit to original posts goes to UnknownRoad with additions by JB in SC.


Here's a link to another list of this topic: [[http://ftso.net/cx-gl/drop.io_stuff/cx_-_gl_500_-_650_parts_interchangeability.pdf|CX / GL 500 / 650 Interchangeability Chart]]