FAQ ENGINE

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FAQ ENGINE:

Q. Help me use the terms "engine cranking","turning over" and "engine firing" correctly? A. The term engine cranks, cranking, and turning over, refers to the starting motor turning the internal engine assembly in a normal manner.

• • Engine firing refers to the observance of combustion pulses due to backfiring, spitting, coughing, and a indication of the engine is trying to start, but may not keep running. Some countries use slightly different connotations, but this is generally accepted in the U.S.

Q. Which oil? A. Engine Oil--- Use 10w-40 or 15w-40 JASO MA rated oil or else your clutch will slip. Synthetic, non synthetic, semi... doesn't matter, just make sure it's rated for a wet clutch. People who blame synthetic oil for clutch slippage have been using non-JASO MA oil - I have never seen someone use the properly rated oil and suffer clutch slippage. Most prefer to use Rotella 15w-40 as their brand of choice. The newer automotive oils have friction modifiers that create problems with a wet clutch.

Q. My oil filter has a spring in it, what is it's purpose? A. All models use a spring & washer to seal the filter against the engine case. Assembly order is: cover, mounting bolt, spring, washer, and filter.

Q. I have to take the back cover off of my engine. What other things should I check? A. Here's a link Triple by pass

Q. Is there a less messy way of checking for metal flecks in my oil when I drain it? A. You might try using a automotive paint filter to strain the oil. These are available and inexpensive at a auto paint outlet.

Q. Do I need a flywheel puller? A: No. Use a M20 X 1.5 at least 25.4mm (1") or longer or a Large Subaru drain pan bolt which is the same size but needs a washer glued to the end to get a hair more length. Also, Car-Quest P/N 65221 made by Oil-Tite which is long enough without an added washer.

Q. The manual says to use the rear tire to rotate the engine for valve adjustment, etc. Isn't there a better way? A. Under the radiator and between the oil filter and clutch cover there is a 17mm inspection cover.(front inspection cover.jpg 17mm front inspection cover location) Remove it using a 6 point* 17mm socket. And then add an extension to your socket to rotate the crankshaft with the now exposed bolt. Turn only clockwise as viewed from the front of the bike to prevent loosening the bolt. *(12 point sockets are known to round off corners of bolts/nuts.)

Q. I don't have a rear cover gasket. Can I just use RVT to seal the case? A. This is NOT recommended as the OEM gasket provides just the correct spacing for the internal parts to operate. Without a gasket, the engine will not rotate.

Q. I changed my shifter seal, and now I can't shift properly. What's wrong? A. When you reinstalled the shifter lever, you may have gotten it off one spline. Check to see where is is hitting and reinstall moving it up or down a spline. Check for the punch marks on the shifter and shaft to line up.

Q. I am dripping a little oil from the shifter area. How can I repair this? A. One of the easiest repairs. Remove shifter, dig out old seal carefully, insert new seal, replace lever, Total time: 15 - 20 minutes

Q. I just completed a stator repair and when I got the bike started, now it won't shift. What did I do wrong? A. The shifting fingers are not properly engaged inside the rear cover. Easy fix, but the cover has to come off. Always try shifting before buttoning up all the bolts on the rear case.

Q. What is the compression on these bikes? A. Honda says 171 lbs on each cylinder, with each cylinder within 10% of the other. Bikes seem to run OK with much lower numbers. These bikes have been known to run with 100 psi. If numbers are really low consider checking the valve adjustment. Tight valves can cause low compression.

Q. How often do I need to replace the piston rings? A. Rings are one of the most reliable and trouble free area of these bikes. 100,000+ miles if the engine has not been severely overheated, run without oil, or the cylinder has not been setting full of coolant or water for an extended period of time.

Q. How do I test the compression of my cylinders on my bike? A. Here's a thread on doing a compression test: LINK

Q. How long does it take to drop a engine on a CX? A. For the first time, probably 1-2 hours, depending on conditions. The purported, but unverified record is 17 minutes from functioning bike to engine on a crate by one person working.

Q. How much does one of these engines weigh with out the fluids and carbs? A. 140-150 LBS. [to CX GL forum thread topic engine weight.]

Q. What is the triple by-pass? A. On these bikes, three things often go bad at the same time. A triple by-pass is replacing the cam chain, stator, and mechanical (water pump) seal. Typical time frame is around 30-40 thousand miles. Often less, sometimes more, depending on maintenance factors. Triple Bypass LINK

Q. I have heard about a "leakdown test". What is it, and what will it tell me about my engine? A. The test involves pressurizing the cylinder at TDC, and then measuring the rate at which the pressure dissipates. It is a great test for cylinder health as listening to the radiator, crankcase, intake or exhaust can pinpoint the leakage path.

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