Removing the Front Wheel on a GL

This may be a bit simplistic, but it does cover some important points. Thanks, Abe.

GL Front Wheel Removal: A how to

Removing and re-installing a front wheel is an easy, straightforward task. Bike on Centrestand. Place a jack under the engine and lift the front wheel clear of the ground (Bike will pivot back, rear wheel will be now on the ground. 14mm, remove bolts from caliper to fork. http://www.facebook.com/photo.php?pid=2484518&id=607192264 Remove your speedo cable, phillips head screw, may be (and recommended) replaced with a bolt or allen head. Note position of the speedo drive. On the gl, it does not sit in a groove between the fork and wheel the same way it fits on my CX. It needs to be back in this position before you retighten the pinch bolts on installation. Slide the caliper back off the disc, and use a bungee and strap it back out of the way. Repeat for other side. http://www.facebook.com/photo.php?pid=2484518&id=607192264 Remove the 14mm nuts off the bottom of the forks. Be prepared to support the wheel http://www.facebook.com/photo.php?pid=2484518&id=607192264 Note the arrows on the bottom of the pinch holders showing forward. On my first GL, there was a dot that corresponded with a dot on the fork, two dots on the otherside. On Beta here, there were no dots, and nothing to indicate Left or Right, so remember which one came from where. http://www.facebook.com/photo.php?pid=2484518&id=607192264 Your Wheel should now be free for removal. On my GL with the 110 front tire, the tire required deflation to clear the fender. Reinstall is essentially a reversal of the above. Note here correct axle placement in the pinch bolts. Right Side: http://www.facebook.com/photo.php?pid=2484518&id=607192264 Make sure the speedodrive is positioned in the proper position. Once the pinch bolts are tightened, you will not be able to adjust it. The pinch bolts should be tightened in the correct sequence. The front bolt needs to be tightened first to the proper torque, compressing the front contact surfaces. Then the rear is tightened to the proper torque. Note the gap in the front part of the assembly. This is incorrect and should be redone. When you are finished, there should be a gap in the rear section. Left http://www.facebook.com/photo.php?pid=2484518&id=607192264 Put your calipers back on. If you don't have enough clearance between the pads (as if someone perhaps pulled your brake lever at some point while they were off, loosen the 8mm bleeder, push the pad and piston gently back. Watch where the brake fluid goes, you don't want it to get on painted or chrome surfaces. Tighten the bleeder and proceed. Do a final alignment check, and do a final check of the pinch bolts. Make sure there is a gap in the back, the wheel studs depend on tightening in this sequence.