Handy material to keep around

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Here is a post from Condoski, that he dug up. Thanks.

Found this post poking around for what anti-seize to use for stainless bolts into aluminum castings. It was written by the most wonderful marshallf3. The man knew his stuff. Especially chemistry. Thank You Marshall...

Over the past 45 years of working on stuff I've learned what I believe is best, stuff any half-decent shop should keep around. If you buy it in the right size it may cost a little more to accumulate all this stuff but it'll last you a lifetime in most cases. This is by no means an all-inclusive list, feel free to add to it but we ought to eventually pin it to the top.

Dow Corning # 111 Silicone Grease - uses on electrical, O-Rings, caliper pins, about anything: http://www.dowcorning.com/content/news/iam_news32.asp Most any auto parts store, get the 8 oz tube

LOCTITE Anti Seize Compound, Nickel, 8-Oz. Can with brush top, good on anything including head and exhaust gaskets: http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/anti-seize-compounds/lubricants/lubrication/ecatalog/N-9iq WW Grainger, some auto parts stores may have it too. Don't fal for copper, this is what the aircraft manufacturers use.

Caig De-Oxit electrical contact cleaner/protectant: http://www.caig.com/ http://www.mcmelectronics.com has it as do other places online, hard to find but the best ever made.

Aero-Kroil penetrating lubricant, a mile above anything else ever made: http://www.kanolabs.com/ Easiest to buy direct although a few heat/air places may carry it.

Loctite thread lockers. Blue (normal) Green (creeping, after assembly) Red (nasty, almost permanent, heat needed to break bond) http://www.loctiteproducts.com/threadlockers.shtml lMost any auto parts store will have them as will hardware or home improvement stores.

Glues, cements etc:

Red, Blue, Black and Copper Loctite gasket sealers 3M Weatherstrip Cement (a contact cement) from most any large auto parts store with a paint department JB Weld (or equiv) Epoxy glues in fast and regular setting times (note that they all take 24 - 48 hours to fully set up) Epoxy putty (comes in a stick, amazing stuff for making or repairing/recreating parts that have missing pieces) Cyanoacrylates in thin & thick (gap filling) (aka Super Glues) Marine grade RTV sealant (aka silicone seal) Weld-On #4 & #16 plastic welder (truly welds plastic together instead of trying to glue it)(mix with powdered lexan/other plastic to make parts)

Misc handy solvents and cleaners most home improvement or paint stores will have them: (I tend to use the following more than the others)

Acetone Toluene (aka lacquer thinner) MEK (Methyl Ethyl Ketone) 91% and 70% isopropyl alcohol Methanol (aka wood alcohol)(may surprise you) Paint thinner (mineral spirits) Xylene(perfect for road tax on chrome ar any greasy situation) VM & P Naphtha (great stuff, safe on plastics) Halogen based brake cleaner Berryman B-12 ChemTool (blend of several solvents) Simple Orange concentrate (citrus based cleaner) Simple Green concentrate (friendly sloe but effective degreaser) Trisodium Phosphate (good for light surface rust, semi-heavy degreasing etc. Sodium Carbononate General purpose alkali cleaner & degreaser (get the real stuff not the not substitute that's out) Cascade Electric Diswaher granuler (good for cleaning light rusted tanks. Get the one that still lists around 6% phosphorous on the back, not the new without)

Advanced and dangerous to handle but all have their places:

Muriatic Acid (anyplace that sells pool supplies, even Home Depot) Citric Acid (very safe to use, you can even eat it) http://www.dudadiesel.com Phosphoric Acid http://www.dudadiesel.com

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