Clarion Radio Repair
OK, as promised I'm going to show you how to replace the tactile switches in the control panel for your Honda-line Clarion radio. If your radio will turn on and there is a read out on the panel saying it works, but you can't get any sound out of it, it's because the small switches under the buttons you push to choose a station have collapsed. What's happening is that the radio thinks it's in the middle of choosing a station and it's waiting for you to let up on the button. The reason for the collapse is due to the design of the switches. Instead of a spring to return the button up, the original ones in the panel were made of rubber and shaped like a cone. They have dried out and do not have the elasticity to bounce the button back up anymore. So it stays down and is basically shorting out the system while it's in the mode of choosing a channel.
The switches I am using were bought from from Mouser Electronics Inc. . Thanks to Marshall for the link to them. Sorry, but the ones I bought do not have a sample picture attached. But you'll see them soon. These switches are a higher quality and should last the life of your bike. I repaired the one for my GL650I a year and a half ago and their still working just fine.
OK, shall we begin. Here is the panel that I'm going to repair. It belongs to Showmedude. He'll be happy to know it works fine now. Resized to 45% (was 1023 x 685) - Click image to enlarge
Remove the 9 little screws to remove the rear panel. NOTE, there are two short ones that are marked here. It's so they don't go in to far a short out the system. Make sure you put them back where they go. Resized to 45% (was 1023 x 685) - Click image to enlarge
You'll find 4 brass post's with slots in them in each corner. Remove those first. Resized to 45% (was 1023 x 685) - Click image to enlarge
After pulling the inside panel out, remove the four nuts holding the stems. One has a larger nut than the rest of them. Resized to 45% (was 1023 x 685) - Click image to enlarge
Remove the light by pulling up on it.
Slide out the two panels in the rear by prying with a flat blade screwdriver on one side till they pop up. Resized to 45% (was 1023 x 685) - Click image to enlarge
Now you can open up the back half. Be careful it's all in one piece as you can see. You'll need to pull 3 of the controls as well. After laying it to the side, remove the four screws holding the front half panel to the housing. NOTE; the screw with the circle around it on the left has a clear plastic washer under it. Be sure to put it back in this spot when your reassembling the panel. Resized to 45% (was 1023 x 685) - Click image to enlarge
Now you can see the switches that were collapsed. Some of them are down and some are up, but not as far as they should be. Resized to 45% (was 1023 x 685) - Click image to enlarge
This is what the new switch looks like. It's just as tall as the old ones. So it's a direct fit into the board with no adjustment for height needed. Resized to 45% (was 1023 x 685) - Click image to enlarge
Now, circled in red, if you can see it, are the tabs that protrude through the panel and are soldered to the board. You need to heat up the soldier and remove the old switches. I use an air blower to blow out the melted solder but I know there are better less messy ways. Marshall, I'm sure you can help with that. Some panels I have worked on like this one had the tabs bent over before they were soldered and some were not. When they are bent over it's much harder to remove all the melted solder. Be careful not to tare of the copper sheeting that it's soldered to. If you do, you can always repair it by scraping the green coating off and adding solder to it so you bridge the gap. Guess how I know that! Resized to 45% (was 1023 x 685) - Click image to enlarge
Removing all 7 switches this way will be your next task. Take your time and don't rush it. Be careful with the iron so you don't melt any of the other sections on the circuit board. Resized to 45% (was 1023 x 685) - Click image to enlarge
When you get the panel all cleaned up, slide each new switch in and bend the post's over so it holds them in place. I did all 7 at once. As you get ready to solder them in you can hold them straight and securely against the board. I used the very thin solder to make it easier to control how much of it I was adding to the tip of the iron. It only takes a second for the solder to flow onto the post and board circuit. You don't want to over heat the new switch or the panel. Resized to 45% (was 1023 x 685) - Click image to enlarge
If they end up crooked, straighten them out one at a time as you re heat the solder. When your satisfied with everything it's time to snip off the ends of the post's. Resized to 45% (was 1023 x 685) - Click image to enlarge
BE AWARE, that these two post are bridged together with solder. Make sure you duplicate this when you put the new switch in here. Resized to 45% (was 1023 x 685) - Click image to enlarge
Now because I have disturbed the integrity of the printed circuit when I removed the old switches, after they are installed I place a small dab of hot glue on two sides of the switches body. It holds it tight and keeps them from shaking around on those bumpy roads. Resized to 45% (was 1023 x 685) - Click image to enlarge
OK, your done. It's time to go back to the top and reverse the order to reassemble the panel. OH, in case your wondering, these old eyes needed a magnifying head set to see what I was doing. It helps a lot when your working on such small stuff. It also will help you see if you have any breaks in the printed circuit from all the work taking the switches out.
After it's assembled plug it in and test each button. If one of them doesn't work you'll need to take it apart again to check the soldering job of that switch. I did one of these switches a second time. But I didn't need to remove the front panel out of the housing. Just the back cover will do.
One more thing. You COULD hot glue the switches in place BEFORE you soldier the post on the board. I thought about that after I finished it up.
I have 43 switches left over from my order. So if you want yours repaired or you want switches let me know. But as you can see they didn't cost much for 50 of them. It was more for the shipping than it was for the switches. Resized to 45% (was 1023 x 685) - Click image to enlarge
OK guys, I'm done posting this if you have any questions. "If you're going to do something, "Do It Right" don't do it half aed" Carb rebuild book link, Book order link HERE 78 CX500std., 79 CX500D project SOLD,GL500I project SOLD,GL650I daily rider.
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